Rugged Shores, Rolling Hills and the Calm Between: My Adventure on the Isle of Mull

Discovering the Beauty of Mull

Right then, let's talk about Mull – that magnificent chunk of the Scottish Hebrides that's been patiently waiting for me to sort through approximately 2,000 puffin photos (yes, you read that correctly) and finally write about my May 2023 adventure. The wildlife shots deserve their own post, so this one's all about the landscapes that left me reaching for my camera at every turn.

The journey began with a road trip from the Midlands, complete with an overnight pit stop at Loch Lomond. Now, I won't go into details about the accommodation – let's just say Basil Fawlty would've felt right at home – but that's a tale for another day. The important bit is that I caught the Oban ferry bright and early, ready to tackle whatever Mull could throw at me.

I split my stay between the Isle of Mull Hotel and Spa (a lovely spot) and some rather brilliant Island Pods near Knock that proved to be the perfect base for my photographic wanderings. Both locations were brilliantly central, though I did encounter a spot of ferry drama during my visit – thankfully sorted before my departure, or this blog post might've been written from a tent on a hillside!

Salen Shipwrecks: Beauty in Decay

Driving through Salen, I stumbled upon something that stopped me dead in my tracks – two magnificent shipwrecks sitting side by side like old friends having a chat by the water's edge. These weren't your typical 'dramatic wreck in a storm' affairs, mind you. These wooden vessels were quietly surrendering to time and tide with remarkable dignity.

There's something deeply moving about photographing decay when it's this graceful. The weathered timbers had taken on muted, earthy tones that seemed to sing in harmony with the surrounding landscape. Each crack and curve told a story, and the interplay of light on aged wood created compositions that practically begged to be captured. It's the sort of scene that forces you to slow down, take a breath, and really see what’s in front of you – not just the obvious subject, but the poetry in the details.

In a landscape built for endurance, these ships reminded me that impermanence has its own quiet beauty. Even in surrender, they offered a profound sense of peace that translated beautifully through the lens.

Two wooden shipwrecks in Salen resting beside each other in still waters front view

Two wooden shipwrecks in Salen resting beside each other in still waters. front view

Tobermory: Postcard Perfect (And Proud of It)

Arriving at Tobermory harbour felt like someone had cranked up the saturation settings on reality. Those famous colourful houses, made iconic by Balamory (and yes, I'm old enough to remember it fondly), were even more spectacular in person. The vibrant facades reflected perfectly in the calm harbour waters, creating those dreamy mirror compositions that landscape photographers dream about.

I couldn't resist capturing the full waterfront scene – boats bobbing gently, reflections dancing, the whole picturesque shebang. It's touristy for a reason, and I'm not too proud to admit I loved every cliché minute of it.

A short trek north led me to the stunning Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse, where blooming yellow gorse created a brilliant contrast against the rugged coastline. The evening light was absolutely magical here, painting the sky in soft pastels that made the whole scene feel like a romantic watercolour come to life.

A classic view of Tobermory's iconic coloured buildings lined up along the harbour.

Tobermory Lighthouse overlooking a serene coastline at golden hour.

Tobermory Lighthouse overlooking a serene coastline at golden hour.

Bright yellow gorse bushes frame the rugged trail to the Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse.

Bright yellow gorse bushes frame the rugged trail to the Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse.

Calgary Bay: Where Wild Meets Gentle

The drive to Calgary Bay feels like Mull exhales – after all that dramatic Highland terrain, suddenly you're faced with something altogether gentler. Rolling grassy dunes, expansive white sands, and waters so turquoise they'd make the Mediterranean jealous (on a good day, naturally – this is Scotland we're talking about).

Despite being one of Mull's more accessible beaches, Calgary never felt crowded during my visit. It's the sort of place that holds space for contemplation, where you can lose yourself in the rhythm of waves and the interplay of light on sand and sea. Perfect for those slower, more meditative compositions that sometimes tell the best stories.

A driftwood log sits on the grassy edge of Calgary Bay, overlooking the serene beach and dramatic co

Golden skies cast a warm glow over the tranquil waters of Calgary Bay, framing the dramatic cliffs i

Three Lochs Viewpoint – Loch an Eilein, Loch an Ellen, and Loch Airde

Sometimes the landscape does all the heavy lifting for you, and the Three Lochs Viewpoint is exactly that sort of place. Capturing Loch an Eilein, Loch an Ellen, and Loch Airde in one sweeping frame felt like photographing a masterpiece that nature had been working on for millennia.

The lochs stretch through the valley like ancient mirrors, each reflecting golden hills beneath brooding Highland skies. My favourite shot from this spot? A cinematic black-and-white of the hillsides with a solitary tree catching a shaft of light – proof that sometimes the simplest elements carry the most emotional weight. It's the sort of image that makes you grateful for the moody Scottish weather that initially had you questioning your life choices.

The Three Lochs Viewpoint captures Loch an Eilein, Loch an Ellen, and Loch Airde glowing beneath bro

A solitary tree catches the light on a hillside beneath a moody Highland sky – a quiet, cinematic mo

Loch Beg: Suspended in Time

Loch Beg offered a quieter moment in Mull's interior – one of those scenes that feels like it's been waiting patiently to be photographed for decades. A modest white cottage nestled beneath towering slopes, golden grasslands catching muted light, and a charming stone bridge arching over a shallow stream completed this postcard-perfect tableau.

The copper-tinged hills and rugged textures gave the entire landscape an almost painterly quality. It's the sort of place where you find yourself shooting frame after frame, each one slightly different as the light shifts and changes the mood entirely.

Loch Beg with a white cottage nestled under copper-tinged hills.

A small stone bridge over a stream near Loch Beg, with soft golden light.

Loch Scridain: Where Drama Lives

If Mull were writing its autobiography, Loch Scridain would be the chapter about teenage angst – all brooding drama and magnificent mood swings. This sea loch is surrounded by peaks that seem to specialise in looking mysterious, whether shrouded in mist or dramatically lit by shifting Highland weather.

The textures here are a photographer's dream: jagged coastlines meet seaweed-strewn shores, golden gorse bushes contrast with mossy green patches, creating compositions rich with colour and character. I found one particularly striking spot featuring an abandoned boat slowly becoming one with the landscape – its weathered timbers blending poetically with the muted tones of the shore.

The loch stretches toward Ben More and its neighbouring peaks, their imposing presence intensified by the constant play of light and shadow beneath those famously dramatic Scottish skies. It's wild, melancholic, and utterly captivating – the sort of place that could keep a landscape photographer busy for weeks.

An abandoned boat resting along the coast of Loch Scridain, blending into the land.

Close view of Loch Scridain’s textured coastline and seaweed-laced rocks.

Loch Scridain with rugged mountains and golden gorse bushes lining the shore.

Bunessan: A Splash of Red

Sometimes it's the unexpected pop of colour that makes a photograph sing. Near Bunessan, I discovered this brilliant red boat sitting quietly in the low tide, surrounded by a mosaic of seaweed and gentle currents. The contrast between its vibrant paintwork and the muted coastal palette was irresistible.

It felt like stumbling upon a perfectly placed accent in an otherwise subtle composition – a reminder that sometimes nature appreciates a bit of human colour to complete the scene.

Uisken Beach – Rugged Beauty and a Horse on a Hill

Of all the locations on Mull, Uisken Beach delivered the sort of moment that makes you question whether you're actually in a film. The instant we arrived, a lone white horse appeared on the hilltop, perfectly positioned in a beam of light like some sort of Celtic cinema magic. It was the kind of scene you'd dismiss as too convenient if someone else told you about it, but there I was, frantically reaching for my camera.

The beach itself is a masterclass in variety – jagged rock formations standing like ancient guardians, smooth sands, seaweed-covered boulders, and textures that change completely with every shift of light. Golden evening rays bouncing off cliffs, the tide glistening across rocks – every frame offered something different.

It's wonderfully remote and wild, yet surprisingly peaceful. The sort of place where time becomes negotiable and you find yourself in deep conversation with crashing waves and endless compositions.

Tide creeping into the rocky shoreline of Uisken Beach, where seaweed-covered boulders meet gentle w

A lone white horse stands on a grassy hilltop at Uisken Beach, dramatically spotlighted beneath mood

Jagged rocks and golden sand form the striking coastline at Uisken Beach, glowing under soft afterno

Day Trip to Iona: Sacred and Spectacular

The short ferry ride from Fionnphort transported us to something altogether different. Stepping onto Iona felt like travelling through time – I half expected to see Norse longships on the horizon as Iona Abbey rose majestically ahead.

The abbey itself is pure atmospheric gold: weathered stone and solemn arches that have witnessed centuries of monastic life and pilgrimage. Exploring its corners, cloisters, and ancient grave markers was deeply moving, made even more poignant by the contrast between its tranquil spirituality and the wild Atlantic surrounding it.

The Nunnery ruins whispered stories of forgotten devotion, while sheep wandered the windswept fields like faithful guardians of history. Meanwhile, those impossibly turquoise waters lapping sandy shores created scenes so otherworldly they seemed almost too good to be true. The constantly shifting Highland light over ancient ruins, vibrant greens meeting Atlantic blues – it was a location that didn't just invite photography, it practically demanded it.

Iona isn't just a place you visit; it's somewhere you feel. The spiritual presence mingles beautifully with raw natural beauty, creating images that carry something deeper than just pretty scenery.

Iona Abbey standing proud under dramatic skies on the Isle of Iona.

Detail of an ancient cross and gravestone on the grounds of Iona Abbey.

Iona Abbey standing proud under dramatic skies on the Isle of Iona.

View through an arched window inside Iona Abbey ruins.

Turquoise water meets sandy shore on Iona’s rugged coast.

Looking across the turquoise waters toward Iona, where whitewashed buildings sit peacefully beneath

Lunga: Pirates and Puffins

Finally, I embarked on a boat trip to Lunga, passing the volcanic wonder of Staffa en route. The coastline's towering cliffs and surreal geological formations were breathtaking enough, but what really captured my imagination were the graceful sailing ships anchored nearby – straight out of a pirate adventure! It felt like stepping into another century entirely.

The puffins on Lunga deserve their own dedicated wildlife post (coming soon!), but the island itself provided a dramatic backdrop for some of my favourite shots of the entire trip.

A puffin skims the ocean’s surface in early morning light, wings outstretched above sparkling waves.

Sailing ship near the cliffs of Lunga, evoking pirate-era charm.

anchored pirate-like ship off Lunga Black and White

Another vantage of the anchored ship off Lunga, framed by rolling green hills and ancient stone ruin

A lone three-masted ship sits anchored below the Lunga cliffs, evoking a timeless, almost cinematic

A red fishing boat anchored in calm waters near the tree-lined shore of Mull, under moody Highland s

Stormy clouds gather over the dramatic coastline of Lunga, its cliffs and seaweed-littered shore glo

The moss-covered volcanic cliffs of Staffa glowing beneath a surreal orange sky, viewed from the sur

Staffa: Nature's Architecture

No trip past Staffa would be complete without stopping to marvel at this geological masterpiece. The island's famous hexagonal basalt columns create a natural cathedral that puts human architecture to shame. Fingal's Cave, carved by centuries of Atlantic storms, provides compositions that blur the line between landscape and abstract art. The interplay of light, water, and ancient volcanic rock creates scenes so dramatic they almost seem too perfect to be real – until you realise Mother Nature has always been the ultimate artist.

The jagged symmetry of basalt columns along the shores of Staffa, carved by ancient volcanic forces

The iconic face of Staffa featuring Fingal’s Cave, a natural cathedral formed by towering vertical b

A close-up study of the basalt pillars of Staffa reveals their geometric perfection and natural arti

Lichen-painted basalt cliffs of Staffa catch the light, revealing the island’s complex volcanic arch

Final Thoughts on Landscape Photography on the Isle of Mull

The Isle of Mull is a stunning place for landscape photography and doesn't shout about its beauty – it's far too Scottish for such nonsense. Instead, it reveals itself gradually through cloud breaks and fleeting light, the hush of a glen, the sudden call of a distant bird. It's a landscape that rewards patience and presence, two qualities that happen to be rather useful in photography as well.

My week on the island was less about hunting the perfect shot and more about responding to what was already there – ancient, rugged, and quietly magnificent. Every bend in the road seemed to offer a new story, and every photograph felt like a small thank-you note to the landscape.

There's a sense here that nature isn't just scenery but a full character in the story – one that doesn't mind being photographed but definitely prefers you to sit quietly for a moment first and show proper respect.

Until next time, keep that camera close and your curiosity closer. Whether you're chasing Highland light or finding magic in your local park, every frame tells a story waiting to be discovered.

The Gear List (For My Fellow Camera Nerds)

For those of you who get excited about camera gear (no judgment, we're all friends here), I was lugging around quite the collection. My trusty Canon R5 Mark II was doing the heavy lifting, along with enough lenses to make my chiropractor wince. The full list is rather impressive - or concerning, depending on whether you're asking me or my bank manager.

• Backpack - Lowepro Tahoe BP 150 Backpack

• Backpack - Lowepro ProTactic BP 450 AW II Backpack

• Camera - Canon EOS R7 Mirrorless Digital Camera Body

• Wide angle lens - Canon EF 11-24mm f/4 L USM

• Extender - Canon Extender RF 1.4x

• Travel lens - Canon EF 24-105mm f4L IS II USM Lens

• Zoom Lens - Canon RF 100-500mm f4.5-7.1L IS USM Lens

• Adaptor - Canon Control Ring Mount Adapter EF-EOS R

• Tripod - Manfrotto MT055CXPRO4 Carbon Fibre Tripod

• Ballhead - Manfrotto XPRO Ball Head with Top Lock

• Monopod - Manfrotto Element MII Aluminium Tripod Kit - Black

  
  

Fancy a Print? - Print This Moment 🖼️

If any of these shots have caught your eye and you fancy having a bit of Mull's magic on your wall, just give me a shout. My online store has plenty of options, but I'm always happy to sort out special requests. After all, these moments are meant to be shared!

Remember to catch the behind-the-scenes fun over on TikTok (@spooner.photography)